Few brands in traditional watchmaking are as committed to playfulness as Hermès, or more properly Hermès Horloger as the watchmaking aspect is called. This spirit permeates the entire brand identity though, as the Slim d’Hermès Pocket Mysterious Rider ably demonstrates. First off, this is a pocket watch that debuted after Watches and Wonders Geneva, as part of the brand’s regular Exceptional pieces series. As an aside, this is not just a limited edition – Hermès Horloger is making just three of these, and you will understand why when you learn a little bit about the handcraftsmanship that goes into the 45mm white gold watch. But we are getting ahead of ourselves…
What will strike you first of all here is the colourful cover, which you would be correct to guess is a motif transposed from an Hermès scarf. A finalist in the Grand Prix du Carré Hermès, the Dutch artist Viktor Hachmang creates pop art, essentially, with a dash of manga and Japanese city pop. His bright colours and geometric patterns bring the mysterious rider to life, portrayed on a stylised alternate universe Tronesque motorbike against the backdrop of a shopfront reminiscent of the historic Hermès boutique at 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. And yes, this is not the horse you might have expected from Hermès, and that we surmise is very much the point.
The cover of the pocket watch, featuring the leader of the pack, is crafted using the intricate champlevé enamel technique. This process involves pitting the metal and then filling the grooves with coloured glass powders mixed with natural oils. The material is then fired multiple times in a kiln at more than 800°C to set the pigments. Hidden behind the resulting brilliant cover is a stately white enamel dial, created via a similar if less exacting technique. The dial is created through a meticulous process of layering enamel, with each layer dried and fired before being adorned with hand-painted red numerals and hour markers. Needless to say, dial or cover, if the material cracks in the kiln, there is no fixing it. The craftsperson has to start over.
At the heart of the Slim d’Hermès Pocket Mysterious Rider beats the ultra-thin Hermès H1950 mechanical self-winding movement, made by long-term partners Vaucher. The timepiece is completed with a matt Rouge H alligator leather strap and pouch, crafted in keeping with Hermès’ renowned saddlery and leather expertise, enhancing the deep crimson tones of this remarkable creation.
Movement: AutomaticH1950;42-hour power reserve
Case: 45mm in white gold; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Matt rouge H alligator cordlet and pouch
Price: On application
This article was first seen on WOW’s #74 Autumn 2024 Issue
For more on the latest in luxury watch reads from WOW, click here.