From Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy receiving rave reviews on his Summer ’24 collection that explores the notion of travel, to the jump of Kering shares after Sabato De Sarno’s debut at Gucci, LUXUO gives an insight into the recently-concluded Milan Fashion Week.
(Image courtesy of Vogue)
Bottega Veneta: The house received rave reviews in a collection that explored the notion of travel
(Image courtesy of Vogue)
Bottega’s Summer 24 collection explored the notion of travel. Models traversed across “continents and oceans” that lay before them, morphing from knitted swim costumes to tailored suiting with strong, constructed shoulders featuring the house’s signature oversized, basket-woven intrecciato bags and vast duffles they have become famously associated with. According to creative director Matthieu Blazy, the showcase was “a connection to who you once were, who you would like to be and where you want to go. The odyssey is both external and internal, physical and through the imagination, a journey of transformation and escape”. Ingenuity was at the forefront of the collection, particularly with the accessories as leather newspapers from around the world morphed into Foulard bags; shoes, skirts and bags were created from tropical leaf in highly crafted leathers, raffia and rope, each exquisite and far from disposable. The collection also played up on the notion of the nomadic traveller, from the corporate commuter to the the free-spirited holiday-goer.
(Image courtesy of Vogue)
Gucci: Sabato De Sarno’s debuts his first Gucci collection
Going in, Sabato De Sarno already had large shoes to fill. His predecessor Alessandro Michele had entered Gucci into a new era of genderless modernity. The previous Gucci collection was the first in Michele’s absence and saw Gucci’s creative team take the reigns to mixed reviews. While the prevoius collection was indeed beautiful with stand-out pieces, some critics noted on a lack of a central theme or thread that ran through the collection. The same was not said for Gucci’s Summer 2024 collection which was grounded in rich storytelling. With credentials that are not to be dismissed (having previously worked at Valentino, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana), there was a sense of refinement alongside playing up to Gucci’s roots from ornamental embellishments to monogrammed outerwear and a playful inclusion of fringe. The front row was packed shoulder to shoulder with celebrities and fans of the brand including Paul Mescal, Julia Garner, Julia Roberts, as well as Troye Sivan, Halle Bailey, Ryan Gosling, Kendall Jenner and Bad Bunny each appearing to come out in celebration for Sarno’s debut. Kering shares increase by four percent immediately after Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci debut.
Prada: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons Redefine Industrial Workwear
While slime oozing from the ceiling may have made a return, the Prada Spring 2024 women’s collection saw Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons sucessfully joined forces to deliver a showcase steeped in details and exquisite feminity. Perhaps sophisticatication was the word of the day, as the duo continue to “challenge the language of classic tailoring”. Translucent scarves or “fragments of dresses” crafted from ethereal, diaphanous georgette was juxtasposed with the collection’s focus tailored sihlouettes. Bags and shoes were embelished with precious leathers while the pieces each reimaged architectural forms.
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