At New York Fashion Week, Peter Do highlights modern minimalism for Helmut Lang debut garnering rave reviews, Ralph Lauren marks their return to New York with a glamourous showcase of gold lamé and fringe while newcomer Singaporean Grace Ling makes headlines with an anthropomorphic collection that melded metal with the human form. In other breaking news, Sarah Burton’s departure from Alexander McQueen once again shines a spotlight on the ever evolving landscape of fashion and its revolving doors of fashion creative directors.
1. Peter Do’s Helmut Lang Debut
As one of the most highly-anticipated showcases in New York, Peter Do certainly delivered with his own brand of a modern minimalism at Helmut Lang’s Spring 2024 collection. Honing in on a new take on luxury, Do’s directional aesthetic was made abundantly clear — utilitarian meets urban sensuality. The show was emblematic of the city it was in. From the location — the fourth-floor of a loft in the Meatpacking District to printed motifs featuring 90s photos of taxis displaying Helmut Lang advertisements. Bright fusha and neon-coloured seat-belt-like sashes adorned sharp-shouldered fitted jackets while manipulation of fabric and textiles hugged the body alongside wordings displayed on white shirting in an ode to Do’s Vietnamese roots.
2. Ralph Lauren Returns to New York
Perhaps it was an omen of goodluck but there was something about watching 90s supermodel Christy Turlington gliding down the runway in a one-shouldered cascading gold Lamé gown that sent hearts of fashion enthusiasts around the world aflutter — talk about a comeback. The collection was a love letter to elevated Bohemian dressing with embroidered beads, sequins, floral prints, dresses and gowns lined with chiffon and tulle. This was his Lauren’s first New York Fashion Week collection since 2019. In a statement to The Associated Press describing the woman he designs for Lauren said she “dresses for who she is on a particular day.” Remarking that the collection was “inspired by her individuality — all the ways she can express herself through colour, texture, contradictions.” As each model flowed in their vibrant ensembles from flowing blouses to blue denim, there was a sense of freedom and liberation in the air.
3. Grace Ling’s Anthropomorphic Collection
Newcomer Singaporean Grace Ling is a young designer to look out for. Grace Ling made headlines for her metal-meets-human runway collection. There was something inherently late 90s, early 2000s about the collection be it the sheer gradient dresses or the paneled chrome bodice (which some critics drew comparisons to the early works of Alexander McQueen), Ling sucessfully balanced sensuality and examining how fabric and metal moulded and draped onto the human form. It was an eerily dystopian display that was breath of fresh air.
Grace Ling Spring Summer 2024. Photo: Kendam
Read More: The Fashion Evolution(s) of 2023
4. Sarah Burton Leaves Alexander McQueen
Alongside the headliners at New York Fashion Week’s showcase, news broke of Sarah Burton’s exit from Alexander McQueen. Burton’s departure McQueen comes after an over two-decade long tenure, 13 years of which was as creative director, filling in the role after the late Lee Alexander McQueen who passed away in 2010. Sarah Burton received mostly positive reviews during her tenure, argubly one of her most successful career moments being when she designed the wedding dress of Kate Middleton, Princess of Wales for her 2011 wedding ceremony to Prince WIlliam, Prince of Wales. While Burton received mostly positive reviews, she was at times compared to her predecessor Alexander McQueen who’s runway collections were audacious, daring, avant-garde and often otherworldly. While Burton in comparison successfully maintained the McQueen DNA, her design approach merged her demure take and penchant for florals with McQueen’s dark, almost gothic themes.
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