Fashion brands understand how to leverage their summer capsule collections and releases. 2024 sees many a Maison revisit their own “house codes” translated through new iterations of signature bags and motifs. Each house takes on a new challenge, the art of re-releasing summer classics. Beyond prints and fabrics, how does one rebrand swimsuits for swimwear, towels and hats for beachwear and kaftans for resortwear?
Summer is also used as a marketing tool for luxury fashion brands to evoke a sense of travel and wanderlust. Here in Southeast Asia, summer seasonal releases arguably connect with consumers more than the winter collections purely for the fact of seasonal climate. LUXUO delves into the latest summer capsule offerings of luxury fashion brands and how they approach the task of reshaping house classics.
Versace
Aimed at “sunrise to sunset dressing”, Donatella Versace’s latest “La Vacanza” collection is described by the brand as a celebration of graphic prints translated through the generous use of summer silks, satin, and jersey. The collection sees a new graphic dubbed the “Barocco Sea” print which is inspired by natural wonders of the sea. The graphic is explored in different colour combinations and material techniques across women’s and men’s shirts and matching shorts, summer knit cardigans and bracelets, a full selection of dresses and jersey skirts. Tweed jackets, tops, skirts, and shorts are revisited from recent seasons, this time in lighter fabrics and in shades of dusty rose and ivory. New pleated dresses with lavallière details and the Barocco print are also in colours of dusty rose, beige, or concrete blue. Standout evening styles include a cocktail dress in Versace’s iconic metal mesh, and a column gown with starfish shapes crafted in embroidery of Japanese natural pearls, silver paillette, and crystals.
Prada
Prada’s collection is filled with sartorial juxtapositions and various paradoxes. First, the offerings blur between points of masculinity and femininity and can be worn for both day and night. Argyle checks, foulard geometrics, and stripes provide a sense of classicism while trench coats and patinated leather biker jackets give a nod to men’s tailoring. Another paradox is found in the styling as gloves may be worn with bathing suits, and tied scarves can transform into a dress or top. Delicate embroideries, knits and raffia crochet highlight Prada’s penchant for craftsmanship while echoes of Prada’s past are found in fabrications including crushed metallic woven textiles, jacquards shifting between cloquet and antique poplin or chiffon and cotton.
Gucci
Gucci Lido is the Maison’s latest collection that pays homage to the allure of coastal living. Drawing inspiration from the charming beach clubs or “lidos” that adorn Italy’s storied coastlines. Creative director Sabato De Sarno embodies a spirit of escapism through a range of sophisticated swimwear to resort wear that blend that luxury and comfort. True to the house, the campaign showcases signature handbags from the brand including the Gucci Jackie and GG Marmont that are reimagined in straw effect raffia and canvas variations. From Porto Cervo and Capri to the Hamptons and Saint-Tropez, the essence of Gucci Lido comes to life through a series of in-store pop-ups in some of the world’s most famous resort destinations in a celebration of sun-kissed days and salty breezes.
Dior
Christian Dior’s Dioriviera collection sees the extensions of the summer wardrobe conceived by creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. This season highlights luxuriant nature or a constellation of suns as a point of reference displayed in a series of dresses, skirts, blouses and tops, composing a summery wardrobe imbued with freshness and spontaneity. Dubbed Toile de Jouy Sauvage and Toile de Jouy Soleil, these variations unfurl on a range of beachwear and accessories, such as ponchos, foutahs and pareos, as well as silk scarves – also adorned with the brand’s signature houndstooth motif. These prints dress the Lady D-Lite and Dior Book Tote bags and are additionally reinterpreted in wicker on the Lady D-Joy. Like an ode to Mediterranean elegance and the art of relaxation, the Maison also unveiled a series of essentials conceived for the summer including yoga mats, parasols and deckchairs alongside a selection of delicate decorative objects, tableware and embroidered cushions.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton’s “LV By the Pool”, is a transversal summer collection that brings the desire for travel into everyday lifestyle staples. The bags of LV By the Pool stand out for their artful and tactile animations as summer-themed iterations of the brand’s monagram bags come in pure cotton denim, and the Noé and OnTheGo tote in natural, hand-crocheted raffia accented with leather detailing. The tropical theme is further explored with the Capucines, Capushell and Twist models in two captivating “Pearly” finishes — a wavy surface of hand-embroidered tube beads and an iridescent, gradient airbrushed calfskin. Hats are seen as an essential summer accessory and come in a wide selection of styles including a bucket hat and cap in fringed Monogram denim. The jewellery line sees the debut of My LV Pearl, a signature line adorned with colourful glass pearls.
Celine
Celine’s Plein Soleil Capsule was inspired by places dear to creative director Hedi Slimane, namely the French Riviera and the Saint-German-Des-Prés. The convergence of seaside and city is explored via wardrobe offerings with luxurious details. The Triomphe motif is revisited in new wicker animations with natural leather braiding details. For Saint Tropez, there is a suede patina jacket worn with a cardigan in braided Syracuse cotton as well an off-white ensemble in a handmade crochet, woven by hand. Laced cotton in soft earth tones and floral motifs complement a spectrum of blue hues in denim and stripes. For the beach, the house offers a striped crochet black and white mini-dress worn over a bikini with gladiator sandals. The Triomphe emblem and Celine signature play out across a Baja cape, a fouta and a tote. Introduced for Plein Soleil are new variations of the Celine Panier, offering another dimension of elevated craft, while sandals, espadrilles, and sunglasses complement the silhouette.
Fendi
Fendi’s Summer 2024 collection evokes a sense of duality and echoes the Maison women’s Spring/Summer 2024 show by Kim Jones with an expansion on the elegant practicality of its pieces. The collection emphasises the idea of Roman freedom against the joyful backdrops of both the city and the seaside. The colour palette sees a series of pale blues, vivid red, bright yellow and contrasting neutral ensembles. The collection also recalls the signature Pequin motif (the black and tobacco vertical “logo no logo” pattern). From outerwear to beachwear, the Pequin is applied on the womenswear range with a contemporary twist, as seen on a leather jacket. The same effect is reflected in the menswear line-up, where the Pequin is spread onto estival materials, from sponge to cotton and crochet.
Givenchy
Givenchy channels “Riviera style” with the “Givenchy Plage” for its 2024 summer capsule collection. First seen in 2023, the collection was then inspired by the joie de vivre and laid-back refinement of Le Clos Fiorentina, Hubert de Givenchy’s summer estate in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, however, its 2024 iteration sees Givenchy introduce a new take on key house signatures including nautical stripes in modern cuts and paired with a summer-take on statement accessories like the Voyou bag, in raffia with contrasting leather accents, and the G-Tote bag in soft raffia. The “Givenchy Plage” sees Givenchy cast a fresh eye on sustainability with legacy fabric that is water-wise, zero-waste, traceable, and timeless. In the spirit of Hubert de Givenchy’s legacy of crafting beachwear, the collection also includes luxurious linen and cotton terry jacquard used for swimwear, cover-ups and separates in shades of aqua green, coral, navy nautical stripes and in leopard print discreetly embellished with the Maison’s 4G emblem.
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