It would be uncharacteristic of Patek Philippe if it didn’t present a new calendar timepiece at Watches and Wonders Geneva, and true to form, the manufacture delivered and didn’t disappoint. Three new interpretations bring fresh flair to the Geneva firm’s already comprehensive repertoire of calendar watches, much to the delight of its avid followers. Ranging from an artistic, heirloom-worthy Grand Complications model and a new iteration of the signature In-Line Perpetual Calendar to a sleek Annual Calendar designed for everyday elegance, each iteration caters uniquely to the diverse tastes of watch enthusiasts.
Ref. 5160/500R: Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts
The Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts timepiece, or Ref. 5160/500R is a dream come true for any hardcore connoisseur, who has a soft spot for the perpetual calendar and incredible artisanship. Bringing generous touches of ritz and flash, this new rose gold version replaces the understated white gold model from 2016.
While collectors covet the Officer’s-style case for its classic design and historical significance, it’s also a piece of art that’s easy to fall in love with – especially when you have the actual watch in your hands. Like its predecessor, this model features intricate hand-engraved volutes and foliage inspired by a historic pocket watch – inv. no. 427, to be exact – that’s on display at the Patek Philippe Museum. And if the embellishments seem somewhat familiar, that’s because they’re drawn from ornate decorations found on vintage firearms. The elaborate engravings cover the dial centre, bezel, case middle, crown, hinged cover, lugs, fold-over clasp, and even the strap screws, making it a true masterpiece of craftsmanship.
The silvery opaline gold dial, paired with blackened white gold Breguet numerals and pear-shaped hands, exudes an air of vintage sophistication. Housed within the 38mm case, the new 26-330 S QR calibre replaces the previous 324 S QR calibre, offering enhanced precision with its stop-seconds function and improved winding system.
The perpetual calendar is displayed through apertures for the day, leap-year cycle, and month, with a retrograde date hand that performs a 270° sweep before resetting each month. The moon-phase mechanism is also a marvel, maintaining accuracy with only a one-day deviation every 122 years. This exquisite variant is topped off with a patinated brown alligator leather strap, secured by a matching hand-engraved fold-over clasp in rose gold.
Ref. 5236P-010: In-Line Perpetual Calendar
Another must-have for the serious collector is the In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-010. This Grand Complications beauty has been given a vintage twist with an opaline rose-gilt dial, complemented by charcoal grey white gold hour markers and faceted baton-style hands.
First launched in 2021 with a blue dial, this model stands out with its unique single aperture at 12 o’clock that displays the day, date, and month. Although clean and minimalist, achieving this in-line display was no small feat. Powered by the ultra-thin 31-260 PS QL calibre, it features an additional module of 118 components that has earned three patents.
These cover the innovative arrangement of four discs on the same plane, including two for the date to enhance both readability and mechanical reliability. The mini rotor’s winding power has also been enhanced, thanks to the use of platinum, a metal with a higher density than the 22k gold typically employed for Patek Philippe mini rotors. The model also features round apertures for the leap-year cycle and day/night indication, as well as a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock with moon phases.
Measuring 41.3mm in diameter and just 11.07mm slim, the elegant platinum case is entirely hand-polished and set with a single diamond at 6 o’clock (a signature for Patek Philippe watches with platinum cases). Its sloping lugs enhance the visual appeal by extending the sleek lines of the bevelled bezel. Finished with a shiny chocolate-brown alligator leather strap and a platinum fold-over clasp, the Ref. 5236P-010 joins the current collection alongside the Ref. 5236P-001 with a blue dial.
Ref. 5396G-017: Annual Calendar with Moon Phases
Lastly, Patek Philippe presents the refreshed version of the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396G in white gold, featuring a striking sunburst blue dial with a black-gradient rim accentuated by 12 baguette-cut diamond hour-markers. First introduced in 2006, the men’s watch has been available in white gold
(Ref. 5396G-011), and rose gold (Ref. 5396R-011) with silvery opaline dials since 2010. In 2017, a rose gold version adorned with a sunburst blue dial and baguette-cut diamond hour-markers (Ref. 5396R-015) was presented.
Launched by Patek Philippe in 1996, the patented Annual Calendar caused a quite stir among the watch community, even spawning an all-new “useful” complications category. You see, this ground-breaking mechanism bridged the gap between simple calendars, which require adjustments five times a year, and perpetual calendars, which need no adjustment but are priced as typical for grand complicatons. The ingenious Annual Calendar needs resetting just once a year, at the end of February, making the watch more accessible and incredibly easy to use.
The brand-new 5396G-017 features a double day/month aperture at 12 o’clock, date aperture at 6 o’clock, and a 24-hour subdial incorporating a moon-phase display. The elegant layout is complemented by faceted white gold Dauphine hands and a slender central second hand. The richly coloured dial is matched by a shiny navy-blue alligator leather strap with a white gold fold-over clasp.
At the heart of the 38.5mm timepiece, the 324 S QA LU 24H calibre has been upgraded to the 26-330 S QA LU 24H calibre, which was derived from the self-winding 26-330 base calibre introduced in 2019. This new movement includes a stop-seconds function and other technical enhancements. The Annual Calendar mechanism also boasts a precise moon-phase display, with a deviation of one day every 122 years.
The 24-hour indication simplifies calendar setting, while the correctors on the case flanks make it easy to adjust the Annual Calendar and moon-phase displays. The movement’s refined finishes, including chamfered and polished edges and an engraved Calatrava cross on the central rotor, are visible through a transparent sapphire crystal caseback. The new Ref. 5396G-017 joins the collection alongside the rose gold Ref. 5396R-011, while the earlier Refs. 5396G-011 and 5396R-015 will be discontinued.
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