The Middle East has long been a source of fascination for artists, designers, and jewellery houses, offering a rich tapestry of culture, history, and opulence. The Middle East is home to intricate patterns of Islamic architecture, vibrant colours of desert landscapes and breathtaking Islamic arts — the region’s influence has shaped some of the most exquisite high jewellery collections in the world.
The Middle East possesses a style that is particularly distinctive, with the culture so deeply enamoured with colourful gemstones and opulent styles. Renowned jewellery houses have embraced these timeless motifs, crafting pieces that echo the splendour of ancient civilisations while celebrating a shared love for cultural heritage and meticulous craftsmanship. LUXUO explores how iconic jewellery houses like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron draw inspiration from the Middle East, creating collections that blend tradition with modern design, and paying homage to one of the world’s most culturally significant regions.
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Bvlgari: “Jannah” Collection
Released in February 2020, Bvlgari’s “Jannah” collection was created in collaboration with Her Highness Sheikha Fatima bint Hazza bin Zayed Al Nahyan from the ruling Royal Family of the United Arab Emirates. “Jannah” which means paradise, revolved around a five petal flower, a motif inspired by the flowers on the ceiling of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque and used to symbolise the connection of the two historical cities: Abu Dhabi and Rome. While the imperial Romans had strong links to the Middle East in the past, the “Jannah” collection is not only representative of the two cities but also the linking of two significantly influential families with the shared characteristic of a deep respect for their cultural heritage.
Chanel: Secrets D’Orients
Chanel’s Secrets D’Orients high jewellery collection was released back in 2019 as an exclusive capsule collection for the Middle East. One of Mademoiselle Chanel’s distinct characteristics is that she could always be spotted wearing pearls, she had been known to wear them with just about any outfit. The Secrets D’Orients collection represent’s Chanel and the Middle East’s shared love for pearls. The pearl harvesting industry in the Middle East is one of the oldest and mostwell-established in the world, upholding the region’s economy before oil and tourism. The intricately crafted pieces of the collection featured Akoya pearls and imperial topaz, selected specially to replicate the earthy colours of the region and imitate the geometry of the Mashrabiya pattern — an architectural pattern symbolic of an Arabian household.
Piaget: Possession Decor Palace, Piaget x Razan Alazzouni
Earlier this year, renowned Swiss house Piaget teamed up with Saudi fashion designer Razan Alazzouni for a new iteration of the Possession Decor Palace collection. The Decor Palace collection has been a part of the house since the 1960s and had since become a signature for them with the opulent yet timeless appearance. The talented designer reinterpreted the Piaget Possession Decor Palace collection by creating two intricately embroidered artworks showcasing Piaget’s signature gold crafting technique, Decor Palace. The specialised technique that Piaget has been incorporating since the 1960s which was inspired by the Guilloché technique traditionally used in watchmaking. Despite its softness, the Decor Palace technique catches and holds the light allowing gold to shine bright even in the lowest of lighting, alluding to the vibrancy of Middle Eastern culture.
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Van Cleef & Arpels :”Le Secret”
The concept of mystery and secrets has been a part of the maison’s history since the beginning, and the “Le Secret” collection is no different. The collection was themed around a “secret garden of jewels”, where flowers, birds and butterflies reside. Each of these motifs were replicated — with vibrant gemstones, yet cleverly hidden in most of the pieces. The collection reflects influences from various cultures, including elements inspired by Middle Eastern geometry and architecture. Van Cleef & Arpels often uses intricate arabesque patterns, drawing on Islamic art and architecture’s repeating geometric forms. Their use of emeralds, diamonds, and intricate filigree recalls the region’s love of luxury and craftsmanship. Additionally, behind the dazzling allure of the floral and fauna-inpsired collection, are ingenious mechanisms used to animate these creatures.
Cartier :”Arabesque” Collection
The renowned French maison Cartier is known to have a deep affinity for Middle Eastern motifs, deeply rooted in the history of the brand and the founder, Louis Cartier. He was particularly enamoured with arabesque designs, and the calligraphic and floral patterns of Islamic art. He had to merged the Middle Eastern-inspired old-world aesthetic with the geometric nature of the lattice, squares and checks from the Modernism era, which led to a shaping of the house’s design principles — still prevalent today. The “Arabesque” collection particularly showcases the significant Middle Eastern influences in the house, with intricate detailing and a touch of Islamic art. Cartier also frequently works with motifs like the crescent moon and palm tree, symbolising the natural and spiritual beauty of the region.
Boucheron: “Hôtel de la Lumière”
This 2015 collection was created in celebration of the house’s 26 Place Vendôme boutique. The collection took inspiration from Boucheron’s archive, with a modern twist to pay homage to all the artisans who have played a part in the boutique’s history. In this collection, Boucheron celebrates the Middle East’s influence by creating pieces that evoke the radiance and warmth of the region’s landscapes. Their use of warm-coloured stones — such as citrine and rubies — and intricate latticework pays homage to the architectural wonders of the region, like the arches of mosques and palaces.
Chaumet:”Les Mondes de Chaumet”
The storied jewellery house through history, has drawn inspiration from a variety of regions all over the world. Chaumet’s “Les Mondes de Chaumet” collection is a great example of that, with a variety of pieces inspired by different corners of the globe, including the Middle East. The collection featured high jewellery pieces with motifs reminiscent of Arabian architecture, desert landscapes, and Middle Eastern traditions. The bold use of gold, diamonds, and lapis lazuli showcased the deep, mystical beauty of the region.
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Chopard:”Red Carpet” Collection
Chopard has been the official jewellery partner for the prestigious annual Cannes Film Festival, with all the star-studded glitz and glamour. The “Red Carpet” collection is exceptionally opulent. The collection takes cues from fairytales, with tiaras, colourful necklaces and floral motifs. While it is not exactly obvious, Chopard frequently incorporates Middle Eastern influences into their “Red Carpet” high jewellery collections. With the incorporation of bold gemstones like emeralds, sapphires, and rubies, they reflect the luxurious and colourful aesthetic of Middle Eastern royalty. The designs also sometimes mimic the region’s famous carpets, tapestries, and ornate decorations with lattice patterns and geometric shapes.
Messika: “Arabian Nights” Collection
Messika has had a long-standing relationship with the Middle East since 2006 when the brand opened a stand-alone store in Dubai Mall. Inspired by the Middle Eastern folklore of “One Thousand and One Nights”, Messika had decided to include a Middle Eastern-inspired chapter in their “Once Upon A Time” High Jewellery collection called “Arabian Nights”. The collection consisted of six pieces influenced by oriental designs and mainly inspired by the cunning heroine “Shahrazad” and the dazzling image of a starry Arabian night sky. Light is the central theme of the collection, with each piece abundantly embellished with diamonds to imitate the “radiant skin of its heroines” in the story. Allusions to the character, “Scheherazade” is consistent with each piece appearing both “playful and desirable” as Messika stated.
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